Branch Circuits Fail ...
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Inspecting Residential Electrical Systems

Advanced Topics and Concepts

 

Online Electrical Class

First live online class presented December 04, 2007 at 8:00 p.m. CST

 

Presented by

CertifiedMasterInspector.org

Instructor

George P. Wells, BSEE, MBA, CRI, CMI

 

Please send all e-mail related to this course to

CMI39420@BestInspectors.Net

The e-mail Subject line should include: CMI39420, Your First and Last Name

 

Check the course Blog for the latest information related to this course

 

Part 2: Branch Circuits Are Most Likely to Fail:

Time: Approximately 1/2 Hour

Do you know where branch circuits are most likely to fail in a house?  I’m looking for a physical location.  Why do they fail there?

We have already covered failure modes and some of physical locations where circuits fail in Part One but I want to elaborate here both on the reasons for failures and the locations. 

You already know about poor connections.  We have talked about circuits failing in junction boxes in attics and other locations.  The failures we have discussed so far have mainly been related in some way to poor workmanship.  It could be argued that indirectly all failures are the result of poor workmanship.  Or, can they?  There are many mechanism in place to ensure that only safe electrical products make it to the marketplace.  We go to great lengths to ensure that electricians are properly trained.  There are programs to educate consumers.  Still electrical systems fail every cay.  The Consumer Product Safety Commission oversees the new recalls of manufactured goods every single day.  Home owners start fires, cause electrocutions, and electrical explosions every day.

Then we home inspectors come along and take on the weight of the World.  We have to give the house a clean bill of health or deliver the bad news that something or perhaps, lots of things, require repair or replacement.  We have truly awesome responsibility.  We have to evaluate a complex system that is almost completely hidden from view.

Electrical systems are hidden from view because people don't like to look at electrical parts (I don't know why?).  There is an incidental benefit to the systems being mostly hidden.  They are protected from physical abuse.  As it is, electrical systems take a lot of abuse.  They really do quite well at surviving the abuse.

Aside from problems with workmanship electrical systems are most likely to fail where they are exposed, where the components are in plain view.  Now this may seem obvious to some of you but I assure you it isn't obvious to everyone.  OK, so this section is about Branch Circuits so let's take a look at where and how branch circuits fail.

Branch circuits are most likely to fail on an outside wall near the main panel.  There are a couple of different factors that contribute to outlets in perimeter walls being more likely to fail than in interior walls.  The first reason is that the first outlet box in a circuit is likely to have been used as a junction.  The box may have more conductors in it and it may be carrying the full load of the circuit.  the part of the circuit that goes back to the panel box is called a "Home Run".

There can be multiple cables going back to a panel for the same circuit but electricians usually tie as many together as they can before taking the circuit back to the panel.  There is a limited to the amount of space in a panel and there is a limit to the number of places to land (terminate) the conductors.  The goal, therefore, is to try to limit the number of conductors that go back to the panel.  Tying two or more cables together in the first box on a circuit limits the number of cables that have to be terminated in the main panel.    

Another factor that contributes to outlets in perimeter walls being more likely to fail the range of temperatures that the outlets and their boxes are subjected to.  The temperatures in an outside wall cause expansion and contraction of connections.  The cycles of expansion and contraction can cause connections to loosen and fail.

We old-timers like to talk about the good old days; especially the days before there were "quick-wire" terminals on outlets and switches.  The quick-wire terminals on the back of a typical outlets allow the outlet to be placed in series with the circuit conductors.  The first outlet in the circuit connected in this way will carry the entire load of the circuit at all times, even when nothing is plugged into the outlet.  Quick-wire terminals are not as durable as a conductor wrapped around a screw. The combination of outlets being placed in series with the circuit conductors, use of quick-wire termination, and being in an outside wall is inviting disaster.

Use your IR thermometer if you have one to check outlets along the walls.  Be sure to have a load in the circuit.  It is best to try to put the load at the farthest outlet on the circuit.  An inexpensive electric space heater is an ideal load to use for testing.  I don't carry my own load.  I usually find enough loads in a house that it is not necessary to provide one.

Attics and crawl spaces can be dangerous places for home inspectors and for electrical wiring.  Attics and crawl spaces, as with the outlet boxes on perimeter walls are subjected to temperature extremes that the wiring on the interior is rarely if ever to exposed to.  Thermal stresses can cause problems but it is not the thermal stresses that are our main concern in these and similar locations.  It is mechanical damage that we need to be concerned with.

I have probably been in hundreds of attics where the homeowner threw down some plywood for a makeshift floor in an attic.  The plywood is directly on top of NM cable.  Fires are caused by pinched cables every day.  Be on the lookout for things such as plywood or stored items on top of wiring.  Watch for things hanging from electrical wires and cables.  Look for signs of nails and staples driven into cables.  I'm not just talking about the work done by the electricians who installed the wiring.  I am also talking about all the things that are done after the wiring was installed.  Pinched and damaged cables are serious business. 

The basic rule here is that electrical wiring should not be used for any propose other than carrying current for the electrical system.  If you see any evidence of the wiring having been used for any other purpose, look for signs of damage.  Spotting damage to the wiring is a lot like looking for wood destroying insects.  You may have some trouble finding the damage at first but once you know what you are looking for, the damaged areas will seem to jump out at you.

AFCI video demonstrates mechanical damage


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Residential Single Family Electrical Service Calculator

Easy to understand and use
Whether you are a home inspector, electrician, engineer, or a homeowner, you can use this software and learn from it.

Most home inspectors and many experienced electricians guess at the electrical service size requirements using rules of thumb (usually involving only square footage).  With the rapid growth in the number of electrical appliances and electronic equipment during the past few years, making a guess could be a costly mistake. 

The Residential Electrical Service Size Calculator takes the guesswork completely out of determining the electrical service size requirement.  The Calculator requires no special knowledge of electrical systems or codes.  All you do is make basic observations about the house and fill in the blanks.  The Calculator lets you enter electrical loads in either Amps or Watts.  the required information can almost always be found on the nameplates of appliances and mechanical equipment.

The Calculator will tell the "Demand Load" (a trade term, different from "connected" load), the nearest standard size panel and main breaker, the conductor (wire) size and the conduit size.    

The Calculator's worksheet can be filled out in about three to four minutes and can be included with any inspection in PDF format.      

Features of the Calculator:
-Automatically calculates the total demand load for a residential single family dwelling
- provides the demand load in both volt-amperes and Amperes
- Automatically adds the minimum of small appliance and laundry branch circuits
- Automatically determines the heating and air conditioning demand load
- Determines the standard service panel size for the system
- Determines the service wire gauges in both aluminum and copper
- Calculations are based on the National Electrical Code (optional method)
- NEC section references under each heading

NOTE: This worksheet is intended to be used as a general guide.  It does not account for all possible factors involved in determining the size of an electrical service. Consult a qualified electrician or the NEC® for additional information.

 
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Voltage, Current, and Power Calculator If you are thinking about pursuing your CMI designation, you are thinking about doing commercial inspections, or you just want to be a more knowledgeable home inspector, you need this calculator!

The area in which home inspectors consistently score the poorest on standardized exams is electrical.  Our training calculators help you develop a better understanding of electricity and electrical systems, thus, helping you to be a better inspector.  Our calculators also help you to develop the skills that your clients and the real estate industry expect you to have as a CMI or a commercial building inspector.

The calculator is essentially an Ohm's Law calculator.  The difference between the BestInspectors.Net  Voltage, Current and Power calculator and most Ohm's Law calculators is that Ohm's Law calculators are usually geared toward electronics, not power systems.  This calculator is for power distribution systems.  The calculator has a Power Factor component to it.  Most Ohm's Law calculators do not.  Calculations can be performed quickly and easily using name plate data or actual measurements.

The calculator is also a training calculator.  There is a list of relevant electrical terms and units of measure on the screen at all times.  Every time you enter a value, the related terms are highlighted.  Once you have entered the values needed to complete the calculations, the remaining input fields are blacked out so you don't inadvertently enter a conflicting value.  For example, if you have entered Voltage and Wattage values, the Current input field is blacked out so you can't insert an invalid value.  The Current in this case would be among the calculated values in the results section.

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